Machine for trimming and hemming fabric sections



M -I 5, 1931'. A s. RIVIERE 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed Juhe 20. 1929SSheets-Sheet 1 May 26, 1931. A. s. RIVIERE 4 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed Jun; 20. 1929 5Sheets-Sheet 2 Iii M v 1.: .5 E: II. Ill! attomwl s A. S. RIVIERE May26, 1931.

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed June 20. 1929 5Sheets-Sheet May 26, 1931.'

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS A. S. RIVIERE' Fil dJulie 20. 192 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 H r 1 4 mm Fm 14 ii 1 1a 6 E [I] 2 6nHHHH I," I

May 26, 1931. A. s. RIVIERE 1,807,552

MACHINE FOR TRIMMING AND HEMMING FABRIC SECTIONS Filed June 20, 1929 5Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented May 26, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFicE ALBERTS. RIVIERE, OF CHICAGO, ,ILIIINOIS, ASSIGNOB TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINECOMPANYyOF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS MACHINE FOB.TRIMMING AND HEMMING- FABRIC SECTIONS Application filed June 20,

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a'sewing machinefor trimming and'hemming fabric sections, and more particularly toamachine for overedg'ing and joining the inturned trimmed edge of afabric section to "the body portion thereof. It is a well knownexpedient to fold a fabric section along the line where an inturned edgeportion is to be joined thereto "and present the same to astitchingmechanism so as to secure the edge of the inturned edge portion'to the'body fabricby stitches which. pass into and out of the body fabric onthe same face thereof, and which cover the edge of the inturned portion.

In this machine of the prior art a trimming device is used for trimmingthe inturned edge portion which is to be joined to the body fabric. Aguide is provided for '20 directing the folded portionto the needle.

An object of the present invention is to provide a machine of the abovetype with 7 means whereby the trimming devices and the guide associatedtherewith may be shifted laterally of the line of feed for the purposeof permitting cross seams to pass through the machine without forcingthe folded portion'of the fabric sections out of the range of theneedle.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the .abovetype wherein the shifting ofthe trimming devicesand the guide may beaccomplished quickly and without-stopping the stitchingmechanism.

These and other objects will in .part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully disclosed.

- In thedrawings Fig. 1 is a front view of a portion of a machineembodying the improvements.

Fig. 2 is a view partly in section andpartly in plan showing the worksupport, presser foot, trimming devices and the guides and certainpartsof the machine associatedthere- Fig. 3 is a view partly in sectionand part ly in front elevation showing the means for permittingthelater'al shift of the trimming devices andalso the means foraccomplishing 1929. Serial No. 372,391.

the shifting of the trimming devices without stopping the machine.

Fig. 6: is a detail .partly in section showing thespring for moving thestationary trimming blade toward the line of feed and the stop forlimiting the lateral shift of said blade. 1

Fig. 5 is a sectional view on the line 55 of Fig. 4. r

Fig. 6 is a View partly in section and part ly in side elevation showingthe manner of supporting the stationary V-trimming blade and the guideon the shiftable member carrying the same.

Fig. 7 is a view in plan showing moreor less diagrammatically therelation of the guide for the folded fabric portion, the trimmingdevices and the needle, and in dotted lines the shiftingof the guide andtrimming devices to permit the passing of a cross seam.

Fig. 8 is asectional view showing the manner of folding the fabric anddirecting the 7 a direction at right angles to the line of feed.

There is also a spring attached to the support which normally holds thesupport moved inward toward the line of feed to the full extent to whichit may be moved controlledby an adjustable stop. The movable trimmingblade is spring pressed into shearing contact with the stationarytrimming blade. These trimming devices are located in front of theneedle and are for the purpose of trimming the int-urned edge portion ofthe fabric section which is to be joined to the body portion of thefabric. In front of the trimming edvice is a guidewhich contacts withthe fold in the fabric and directs the same to the needle so that tbcneedle enters and emerges from the same face of the fabric section. Thisedge guide may be positioned so that the needle will pass into and outof the fabric section without going all the way through in which caseblind stitches will be formed.

On the other hand it may be positioned so that the stitches will showslightly on the right face of the article.

Associated with this guide is a means for folding the fabric. The guideis mounted on the same support which carries the stationary trimmingblade. Treadle controlled means is connected to this support so that theoperator at any time during the running of the machine may shift thesupport for the stationary trimming blade and the guide. This shiftingof the support for the stationary trimming blade will cause the movabletrimming blade likewise to be shifted as it bears continuously againstsaid stationary blade. Thus it is that when there is a cross seamapproaching which would tend to force the foloed portion of the fabricsection away from the guide and thus possibly position the parts whichare being stitched so that the needle will escape the folded portion ofthe fabric, the operator shifts the guide to the right as viewed by theoperator. This shifting of the support also shifts the trimming devicesand it allows the cross seam to pass the guide and the trimming deviceswithout causing the fabric section beyond the cross seam being deflectedout of the path of the needle.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the machine includes asupporting bed 1 carrying an overhanging arm 2 in which a needle bar 3is mounted for reciprocation. The needle bar 3 carries a needle 4.Cooperating with the needle 4 are suitable complemcntal stitch formingelements for producing an overedge stitch. ()ne of the loopers isindicated at 5. The particular stitch forming mechanism forms no part ofthe present invention. The material is fed across the work support bythe usual feeding mechanism which has not been shown. The line of feedis indicated by the arrow (1- in Fig. 2. In front of the needle are thetrimming devices which include a, stationary trimming blade 6 and amovable trimming blade 7. The movable trimming blade 7 is carried by alever 8" which is fixed to a shaft 8. This shaft 8 is mounted insuitable bearings at the rear of the machine. The shaft is moved endwisein its bearings by means of a spring 9 (see Fig. 3). An adjustableabutment collar 10 is provided for varying the tension on the spring.This spring moving the shaft endwise causes the movable blade to make ashearing contact with the stationary blade. The movable blade isprovided with a finger which overlies and continuously makes contactwith the stationary blade when said movable blade is in normal positionfor trimming.

The movable blade is actuated by means of a lever 11 to which it may becoupled by means of a coupling device indicated at 12. The manner ofsupporting and operating the movable member of the trimming mechanismforms no part of the present invention. The stationary trimming blade 6is mounted on a support 13. This support extends in a direction at rightangles to the line of feed and is attached to the apron 14 of the clothplate 15 of the machine so that it is capable of a slight endwisemovement.

The cloth plate is provided with a slot (see Fig. 5) and suitable screws17, 17 passing through the slot are threaded into the support. They alsopass through a plate 18 and this plate 18 overlies the slot, thusforming means for mounting the support 13 and permitting the endwisemovement thereof referred to.

The stationary blade 6 is clamped to the support 13 by means of aclamping plate 19 and a clamping screw 20. This support 13 which carriesthe stationary trimming blade is moved in a direction toward the line offeed by a spring 21 which is attached to a suitable post 22 carried bythe support at one end and attached to a suitable holding eye 23 at itsother end. There is an adjustable stop screw 24 mounted in a bracket 25carried by the depending apron 14 of the machine. There is also a screw26 threaded into the end of the support which makes contact with thisstop. screw 24. The spring will move the support endwise until it makescontact with this stop screw.

The trimming devices, as noted above, are located directly in front ofthe needle. Directly in front of the trimming devices is a guidingmember 27. This guiding member 27 is carried by a bracket 28 whichextends down alongside of the support 13 and is secured thereto byclamping screws 29. It is this bracket 28 which carries the post 22 towhich the spring 21 is attached.

A fabric section to be hemmed is indicated at F in Fig. 8. The edgeportion thereof is inturned as indicated at f. The fabric is folded at fback on itself so that the extreme edge portion of the fabric overliesthis fold The fabric thus folded is directed along the guide 27 with theextreme edge portion 7 overlying the guide. It is thus directed to thetrimming mechanism. The line of trimming is substantially in alignmentwith the folded portion f in the fabric section so that the foldedportionf will pass close to the moving trimming blade but will not be inany way cut. The overlying portion f. however, will be trimmed. Thisguide and the trimming devices are so positioned relative to the needlethat the needle will pass through the edge portion close to'thetrimmededge thereof and into and out of the fabric section to the foldftherein, as clearly shown in Fig. 9, wherein the needle threads areindicated at n and the overedge threads at 0.

This support 13 for the stationary trimming blade and the edge guide isalso pro vided with a pin 30 which pr-ojectsthrough the plate 18 and isthreaded into the support 13. Attached to the depending apron 1 1 is anelbow lever 31 pivoted at 32 to the apron. Said elbow lever has forkedarms 33, 33 which straddle this pin 30. The elbow lever 31 is connectedthrough a suitable flexible means 34. either to a treadle or knee shift.When this lever is depressed (see Fig. 3) the forked end will be movedto the right and this will move the support for the stationary trimmingblade and the guide to the right away from the line of feed. The spring9 permits thislateral movement of-the stationary trimming blade carryingwith it the movable trimming blade.

When the treadle is released the spring 21 will, of course, immediatelyreturn the stationary trimming blade and the guide to their normal setposition which is determined by the stop screw 24.

From the above it will beapparent that a means has been provided wherebythe operator at will and without stopping the stitching mechanism canshift the trimming devices laterally of the line of feed and also theguide which engages the folded portion of 1 the fabric for directing thesame to the stitching devices.

There is at the front of the machine a guide member. 35 carried by asupporting bracket 36. This guide member 35 extends over the fabricsections and underneath the folded back portion so as to continue tofold the fabric section. The bracket 36 is pivoted at 37 to a support38. This support 38 is capable of adjustment. It is adjusted by meansofa shifting screw 39 and held in set position by a clamping screw 40. Themachine is provided with the usual cover plates and guides for guidingthe trimmed off strip. It is also provided with a Presser foot 41 whichhas a laterally projecting portion 42that aids in deflecting the trimmedoff strip downward and away from the stitching mechanism. The details ofthe machine except as to the mounting and shifting of the trimming de- 6vices and the guide form no part of the present invention'and have onlybeen referred'to in a general way.

Referring to Fig. 7 of the drawings the needle, the trimming devices andthe guide for the fold in the fabric have been indicated of the fabricto the left as viewed in this figure provided, of course,.the guideremains in a fixed set position. This shifting of the folded portion ofthe fabric to the left will tend'to move the folded portion beyond thecross seam out of the path of the needle so 3 that the needle willescape the fold and the inturned edge portion willnot be joined to thebody fabric. The operator, however, can quickly without stopping themachine depress the treadle or knee shift which will shift the'guide andlikewise the trimming de vices to the right as viewed in Fig. 7 to thedotted 'line position. This will allow the cross seam to pass withoutcausing the portion of the fabric in advance thereof to be deflected outof the path of the needle.

As soon as the cross seam has passed the guide andtrimming devices, thenthe operator can release the treadle or knee shift and the spring willautomatically restore the guide and trimming devices to their normal setposition. 7

In forming'this type of seam for joining the inturned edge portion tothe body fabric it is usually desired that the stitches shall show verylittle. if at all, on the right face of the goods. In order toaccomplish this,

it is essential that the fold in the fabric shall be directed withconsiderable nicety to the needle. Ifthe fold is too far to the right,then the needle will go all the way through the fabric section andproduce grinning stitches on the right face thereof. On the other handif the fold is too far to the left,

then the needle will skip the folded portion of the fabric section andnot join the inturned edge portion thereto. The normal position of theguide is determined by shifting the stop screw 24 and also the screw 26.When once set then the guide willbe so positioned s that the needle willwith certainty enter th fold in thefabric section passing into and outof the same without going all the way through or to such an extent as toshow excessive grinning stitches.

It will be apparent, however, that a cross seam. will crowd this fold inthe fabric portion away from the guide if it remains in this setposition and thus the fold in the fabric in advance of the cross seamwill be deflected .i

out of the path of the needle.

By my improved means whereby the trim ming devices and the edge guidemay at the.

will of the operator be quickly shifted to permit the cross seam topass, the stitching of the inturned edge portion may be effected all theway up to the cross seam and across the same.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may bemade without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth inthe appended claims.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is

1. A sewing machine including in combinalit tion a stitch formingmechanism, trimming lcviccs including a stationary trimming blade and amovable trimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of afabric section past the trimming devices and to the needle of thestitching mechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the sameface of the folded fabric section, and means whereby said trimmingdevices and guide may be shifted laterally of the line of feed at thewill of the operator without stopping the stitching mechanism to permitthe passing of a cross seam without deflecting the advancing foldedportion of the fabric out of the path of the needle.

2. A sewin machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabricsection past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitchingmechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face ofthe folded fabric section, means whereby the position of said guide andtrimming devices may be adjusted late ally of the line of feed, andmeans whereby said guide and trimming devices may be moved laterallyaway from their set positions without stopping the stitching mechanism.

3. A sewin machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabricsection past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitchingmechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face ofthe folded fabric section, yielding means for holding said trimmingdevices and guide in set position relative to the line of fee and meansfor moving saic. trimming dew sees and guide laterally away from theline of feed at the will of the operator without stopping the stitchingmechanism.

4. A sewing machine including in combinat on a stitch forming mechanism,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide '1' the folded portion of a fabric seethetrimming devices and to the the stitching mechanism whereby d needleenters and emerges from the same face o the folded fabric section,yielding means for holding said trimming devices and guide in setposition relative to the line of feed, means for moving trimming devicesand guide laterally away from the line of feed at the will of theoperator without stopping the stitching mechanism, a stop associatedwith said yielding means for determining the set position of thetrimming devices and guide. and means for adjusting said step to varythe set position thereof.

A. sewing machine including in combination a stitch forming mcchanisn'i,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabricsection past the trimming devices and to th needle of the stitchingmechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face ofthe folded fabric section, a support on which said stationary trimmingblade and said guide are mounted, yielding means for moving said supportin a direction at right angles to the line of feed for holding saidtrimming devices and said guide in a set position relative to the lineof feed, and manual means for shifting said trimming devices and saidguide away from the line of feed at the will of the operator withoutstopping the stitching mechanism.

6. A sewing machine including in combination a stitch forming mechanism,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabricsection past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitchingmechanism whereby said needle enters ant. emerges from the same face ofthe folded fabric section, a support on nnich said stationary trimmingblade and said guide are mounted, yielding means for moving said supportin a direction at right angles to the line of feed for holding saidtrimming devices and said guide in a set position relative to the lineof feed, manual means for shifting said trimming devices and said guideaway from the line of feed at the will. of the operator without stoppingthe stitching mechanism, and an adjustable stop for limiting themovement of said support and determining the set position of saidtrimming devices and said guide.

7. A sewing machine including in comb nation a stitch forming mechanism,trimming devices including a stationary trimming blade and a movabletrimming blade, a guide for guiding the folded portion of a fabricsection past the trimming devices and to the needle of the stitchingmechanism whereby said needle enters and emerges from the same face ofthe folded fabric section, a support movable at right angles to the lineof feed for said stationary trimming blade and said guide, a springattached to said support and to the machine frame for normally movingsaid support so as to position said. guide and trimming devices in setposition relative to the line of feed, an adjustable stop for limit ingthe movement of said support, a manually controlled lever having aforked. end adapted to engage a pin carried by said support for movingsaid support against the action of the spring to shift said trimmingdevices and said guide away from the line of feed.

In testimony whereof, I aliix my signature.

' ALBERT S. RIVIERE.

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